Chora Church is one of the most important Byzantine structures in Istanbul. It even overshadows Hagia Sophia when it comes to Byzantine mosaics adorning its walls.
Chora Church is one of the oldest buildings in the city. The church, which was used as a mosque in the Ottoman period, became a museum in the Republic period. With a decision taken in 2020, it was converted into a mosque again.
Chora Church characterizes the golden years of late Byzantine art in a splendid way and the colors of gold, khaki, purple, lilac and saxe gleam like sunset lights. This secret gem of Istanbul has the most impeccable iconographic depictions inherited from the Byzantium.
In this article, you can find information about the history of the Chora Church, known as the “Kariye Camii” in the local language. In addition, Kariye Mosque entrance fee and opening hours are also noted.
Table of Contents
The History of Chora Church
The history of the Chora Church goes back to the foundation of Constantinople, in the 4th century. Outside the city walls of Emperor Constantine, the complex was known as Chora Monastery, meaning the rural monastery.
During the reign of Emperor Theodosius II, the city walls were enlarged and the monastery remained within the new walls.
In the early period of the Byzantine Empire, the city center was where buildings such as the Great Palace, Hippodrome and Hagia Sophia were located. This area, which is the eastern side of the Historic Peninsula, is known today as Sultanahmet.
However, after the 11th century, the emperors began to pay more attention to the shores of the Golden Horn and built a magnificent palace called the Palace of Blachernae.
With the rise of the Palace of Blachernae, Chora Church also gained importance. Chora Church was located right next to the famous Theodosian Walls that guarded Constantinople. For this reason, the famous Hodegetria (Icon of Mary), believed to protect the city, was kept here.
The Chora Church, which formed the core of the Chora Monastery, was rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Alexios I Komnenos. However, the main person who gave the church its present identity was a Byzantine bureaucrat named Theodore Metochites.
Theodore Metochites had the title of “Grand Logothete”, one of the highest ranks in the empire, in the 14th century. Later in his career, he spent his fortune on the decoration of the Chora Church.
The artists commissioned by Theodore Metochites filled the walls and ceiling of the Chora Church with mosaics depicting the life of Mary and Jesus. These mosaics are still visible.
Things to See in Chora Church
Things to See in Chora Church is spread over four separate sections. The first of these is the outer corridor covered with mosaics depicting the life of Jesus. The second is the interior corridor decorated with mosaics telling about the life of Mary.
The third section, the main space, draws attention with its simplicity. The fourth part is the burial chapel, also known as Parecclesion, decorated with magnificent frescoes.
1. Outer Narthex
Outer Narthex has wonderful mosaics depicting the life of Jesus. Especially the Christ Pantocrator mosaic on the door to Inner Narthex is interesting. Although some of the mosaics in this part of the church were damaged by earthquakes, they are generally in very good condition.
In fact, these mosaics were covered with plaster when the building was converted into a mosque in the Ottoman period. However, the mosaics were not damaged.
In this way, the mosaics were completely opened with a work led by the Byzantine Institute of America during the Republican era. Thus, the building was turned into a museum.
2. Inner Narthex
Inner Narthex has mosaics telling the story of Virgin Mary. Some of the mosaics in this section are taken from the apocryphal bible and contain scenes not seen in other churches.
There is also a mosaic series showing the miracles of Jesus on the south side of Inner Narthex. From the south of Inner Narthex there is a door leading to Parecclesion, the burial chapel.
3. The Nave
The Nave can be reached through the inner narthex. The main section is surprisingly simple. The final scene of breathtaking Byzantine mosaics in the interior and exterior corridors is located here.
There is a mosaic depicting each Jesus and Mary on both sides of the altar. The main part offers silence and peace, as if proving that the structure was essentially a monastery.
4. Parecclesion
Parecclesion is the most distinctive part of Chora Church. Theodore Metochites, the patron of the church, added this part to the church later and was buried here when he died.
The frescoes on the walls and ceiling of the Parecclesion are magnificent. There are pictures of Christian martyrs and famous patriarchs of the past on the walls. On the ceiling are scenes of resurrection and last judgment.
Chora Church Entrance Fee 2023
Chora Church entrance fee was 65 Turkish Liras before it was converted into a mosque. The name of the building has changed from the Kariye Museum to the Kariye Mosque since 2020 and, like all mosques in Istanbul, the entrance is free.
Kariye Mosque Opening Hours 2023
Kariye Mosque opening hours are between 09:00 in the morning and 18:30 in the evening. The building, also known as the Kariye Museum or Chora Church, is now closed to visitors during prayer hours as it is a mosque.
Please note that the Chora Church has been closed to visitors since 2020 for restoration. At the end of the article, I added a section about the current status of the renovation process, which I update every few months.
How to Get to Kariye Mosque?
Kariye Mosque is located on the West side of the Historical Peninsula. The most practical way to go to Kariye Mosque (formerly Chora Church) is to take a taxi as there is no tram or metro stop nearby.
In order to go to Kariye Mosque from Taksim Square, you can take one of the buses to Edirnekapi. You can get off the bus at Edirnekapi Stop and walk to the Kariye Mosque (formerly Chora Church) in 5 minutes.
In order to go to the Kariye Mosque from Sultanahmet, you can take the trams in the direction of Kabatas and get off at the Eminonu stop. If you take the bus from Eminonu to Edirnekapi direction and get off at Edirnekapi Stop, you can walk to Kariye Mosque (formerly Chora Church) in 5 minutes.
Conclusion
Chora Church, which has the most beautiful Byzantine artworks in Istanbul, is now known as the Kariye Mosque. The building served as a museum for 90 years between 1930 and 2020.
If you want to see the most beautiful examples of medieval Christian art in the East, the Chora Church is a must-see. Because Byzantine mosaic series that have survived to the present day by preserving their integrity are rare in the world.
Restoration Status of Chora Church 2023
Kariye Mosque (aka Chora Church) has been closed to visitors since July 2020 for restoration. As of 27th May 2023, when I updated this article, Kariye Mosque was still not opened. Unfortunately, there is no official statement yet about when it will open.
Written by Serhat Engul
It looks like this was also just converted into a mosque, which is another disappointing move on Turkey’s end. Do you know if it’s still currently open to the public to visit and when?
Hi, yes I think it should have stayed as a museum. They will find a way to show the mosaics to the visitors even if it would serve as a mosque. Chora still serves as a museum for now and can be visited. It’s open to visit from 09:00 to 17:00.
I believe the claim it is open to visitors is incorrect. I am staying in the area and passed by the mosque twice on 26 and 27 January 2023 – nothing appears to be open. If you have an advice on how to get in during suitable hours, l’d love to hear it. BTW, no one seems to be coming in for prayers either — especially as there are plenty of wonderful other mosques to pray in around the neighbourhood.
Dear Dina Lordanova, thank you for sharing your observations. Your contributions are valuable for people to get the latest information about Kariye. However, if you read the article carefully, you may notice that there are warnings in two separate sections (in the middle and at the end) that the building is not open to visitors.
My statement, under which you have added your comment, is from August 2020. At that time, Kariye was still open to visitors. Shortly after this announcement, Chora was turned into a mosque and closed for restoration.
Hi Serhat, your blog is super useful, do you know if Chora Church is currently open for visitors? I’m planning a trip to Istanbul for next autumn
Hi Diego, thank you for the feedback on the blog. Unfortunately, Chora has been closed for renovations for a year. As far as I follow, there is no announcement about when it will reopen.
Hi Serhat,
Would you please let me know which Turkish Hamam would be better to recommend to tourists: Cagaloglu Hamami in the Old City versus Kilic Ali pasa Hamami in Beyoglu?
Aslinda Turkce mi yazmaliydim? Okuyanlar anlasin, islerine yarasin diye Ingilizce yazdim.
Hello Ulku Yuksel,
In fact, both baths have their own advantages. I think someone staying in Sultanahmet can go to Cagaloglu Hamami. On the other hand, someone staying near Taksim should go to Kilic Ali Pasha Hamami.
Since baths raise a person’s body temperature very much, it is useful to return to the hotel immediately after leaving there. Because if it is not summer, the weather in Istanbul is windy and you may experience a serious cold during the travel.
Although Kilic Ali Pasha Hamami has become more popular in recent years, Cagaloglu Hamami is also the same age and both were built by Mimar Sinan.
Best regards,
Serhat Engul
Is the museum open now?
No, unfortunately it’s still closed. It is unclear exactly when it will open.
Will it be open for visitors (not prayer) this summer ?
Hi Francis, unfortunately there is no information about this. If anything changes, I will update the post again.
Hi Serhat, is Chora still closed?
Hi Vladimir, yes Chora is still closed and no information on when it will open. If anything changes, I will try to update the post immediately.
Hi Serhat, I’m an English teacher at Kadir Has University. I enjoyed your post. Do you have an update on the reopening of the Chora?
Hi Rob, I’m glad you liked the article. Unfortunately, there is no news about when Kariye will open. It doesn’t look like there will be any progress anytime soon.
Hi Serhat, I will go to Istanbul in late May 2023, do you have any information about Kariye Mosque or Fethiye Mosque, if they will be open?
On google there is information that it is open for prayers only and visitors can visit it when there is no prayer time? or are those mosques completely closed due to restoration?
Thank you for the answer, I am planning my trip and wanted to enter those places a lot! : )
Hello Tomas, unfortunately, both Kariye Mosque (former Kariye Museum) and Fethiye Museum are currently closed to visitors due to restoration.
Both structures have been closed for more than 2 years and no official statement has been made yet as to when they will open. I don’t think they will open anytime soon.
Thank you! 🙂
You are welcome! 🙂
Serhat Bey,
Lütfen, tell me that the Kariye Camii will be open by April 20th, 2023! I realize that’s right at Ramadan which also might affect any yabancı visiting hours. If not April, are there any hopes for May?
I am pining for a sight of it which I have not seen since 1967. I’d been hoping to visit with two friends in April and then go to Asitane.
Saygılarımla, jc
Hello Judith, thank you for your comment. Unfortunately, I will not be able to make a positive feedback about the opening of the Kariye Mosque. Because the Kariye Mosque (Former Kariye Museum or Chora Church) indefinitely closed.
There is no explanation about when to open. I certainly don’t think it will open in the first half of this year. Currently, Turkey’s agenda is busy with the recent earthquake and the upcoming election. Maybe there may be a light of hope towards the end of the year.
Dear Serhat, if the Kariye museum bacame a mosque in 2020 & closed for restoration, doesnt it mean, in the first place, the mosaics will be covered and we will not see them any more, no matter when it re-opens?
Dusan.
Dear Dusan, this is more complicated than it seems. Hagia Sophia and Chora were two museums with the same status. Two structures that were originally churches, converted into mosques during the Ottoman period, and later became a museum in the Republican period.
When Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque, they also made Kariye a mosque. However, there are only a few mosaics in Hagia Sophia. On the other hand, all the walls and ceilings of Chora are covered with mosaics.
Although Hagia Sophia was turned into a mosque, the mosaics were not permanently closed. There is a curtain in front of one of the mosaics on the ground floor (as it is directly opposite the worshipers). The remaining two mosaics are open.
I don’t think the mosaics in Chora will be closed either. However, it seems that there is no easy way to use Kariye as a mosque and still display the mosaics. Perhaps a solution has been found and the building is undergoing restoration to put it into practice.
By the way, what I wrote are my own personal views and observations. No official statement has been made about this.
Good day and thank you for this site. Are the mosaics of the former Chora Church, now the Kariye Mosque, currently available to the public to view? (June/Jul 2023).
Hi Keithea Schaedler, unfortunately Chora’s opening date doesn’t seem to be close. I’m afraid it will be closed this summer. If it does, I’ll update the post immediately.
Hello Mr. Engul,
Thank you for your updates. We are lucky to be visiting Istanbul October 24 to 26. Do you have any whether the Chora will reopen by then? I get the impression from other comments the local cafe owner may have an idea based on what the workmen tell him?
Thank you,
Mark Rigby
Dear Mark Rigby,
The opening time of the Chora Church is still unknown. There is no official statement yet.
On this site, I only share information that has been confirmed by official authorities.
Rumors about the reopening of the church may be misleading for people who are planning a visit to Istanbul.
If you ask my personal opinion, I do not think that the church will open in 2023.
Kind regards,
Serhat Engul
Thank you Mr. Engul,
What a shame. I see the Fethiye Museum and the Mosaics museum are also now (indefinitely?) closed for renovation as well. Had hoped to see those too.
There surely cannot be many skilled mosaic restorers working in Istanbul. Why not close one place at a time rather than all of them at once?
So it seems if you want to see high quality Byzantine mosaics it seems your only chance now is to go to Ravenna in Italy.
Not Athens by the way, they have also just closed their Byzantine museum for renovation for an unstated time.
Best,
Mark Rigby
Dear Mark Rigby,
Yes, unfortunately, all the places where you can see Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul are currently under restoration. Only the Leo VI Mosaic and the Emperors Justinian & Constantine Mosaic, both of which are on the ground floor of Hagia Sophia, can be seen clearly.
I have no idea why all the museums are closed at the same time. Fethiye Museum was closed for 4-5 years, Kariye Mosque was closed for 3 years. The Great Palace Mosaic Museum was closed just last month. We have to wait until an official statement comes out.
Best,
Serhat Engul
Dear Serhat:
It is with great sadness that I read about all the closures. I am going to Turkey in October and had hoped to see many mosaics. Since that was my main interest in Istanbul, what else is there for me to see and do? Perhaps I should spend more time in other areas of Turkey?
I do hope that your guide work has not been too terribly impacted by this.
Cheers,
Kim
Dear Kimberly Mack,
Unfortunately, 3 of 4 places where you can see Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul are closed for renovations.
Kariye (Chora), Fethiye (Pammakaristos) mosques are currently closed. The Great Palace Mosaics Museum has been under restoration since July 2023.
For this reason, the only original Byzantine mosaics that can be seen in Istanbul these days are Leo VI mosaic and Emperors Constantine and Justinian mosaic, both of which are located on the ground floor of Hagia Sophia.
There are many places outside of Istanbul where you can see Byzantine frescoes and mosaics. The main ones are the rock churches in the Goreme and Ihlara valleys in Cappadocia and the Sumela Monastery in Trabzon.
Apart from the Byzantine history-themed tours, I also have tours that include mainstream tourist destinations. In this way, my work was not affected too badly. However, these days, I can’t do the full-day Byzantine tour, which is my most unique tour.
Best regards,
Serhat Engul